need more horsepower & torque

Dear members.

After two years of driving a LGT, I am starting to get 'bored' with the available power. Need more bhp and torque.

After all the remarks about the CVT copping with turbo-charging, it does seem a lost dream.

What to do ?

You're referring to paper bhp or what really matters while you are driving?

Donny, on-paper power seldom lies la, unless you're talking about small differences lo (like less than 30HP difference).

Steven, it depends on "how much is enough" for you lo

From what I remember, these are following "outstanding" mods that can add HP/Nm :

Piggyback/reflash = ~6-9 HP on-wheel
ignition voltage booster = ~3 hp on-engine but has a much more torquey feeling (i.e. better driving "feeling")
exhaust system = can be as much as 20HP on-engine
open-pod air filter = can be as much as 5HP on-engine
spark plugs = prolly zero HP increase but better response

The above are just OTOH, there are prolly other mods worth mentioning but I'm too lazy to think/remember

bro sk18, whats yr current set up..

bro, very easy. just equip ur car with below:
1. unichipQ
2. alt booster
3. Hot Inazma fullrange (X-power, hot earth 5point, INZ pulse, S-pocket, surplus, INZ GII)
4. HotBits xtractor with (S or straight flow setup)
5. hi flow dropin filter
6. iradium racing Hi performance spark plugs
7. Ecotec
8. Throttle Controler
9. ligtweight crank pulley
10. cyclone3 twister
11. and alum X hood for lightweight ur car.. (increase 10hp) hehe
12. fill Ron 97..
13. and others... incl lightweight rim

The Hot Inazma full range will come up to how much???

reasonable price for its best performance result
its Sun Auto product. the best electronic performance part in Japan.
widely use in drag & hi performance car.

early 2008 price when i installed those was

Hot Inazma X-Power RM1400
Inazma Hot Earth 5point RM580
Hot Inazma Pulse RM500
Hot Inazma GII RM500
Hot Inazma Super Pocket RM250
Inazma Surplus RM160

now waiting Inazma Blade..

Wei!!!!!!! GG, u keep all the expense receipt ka??? Its not taxable btw..................

Hi everyone.

My ride has the following -

MegaRaizin VS plus grounding
2 units Spark Earth by Pivot
1 unit Cyclone
Alternator booster
RRM Valve Timing Unit
K&N open pod with heat shield
Hot Bits exhaust system

Maybe I need to reduce the weight of the car.....some carbon fibre panels, no spare tyre, reduce my body weight by 20kg.

Btw, have u dyno b4 & after the RRM???? What's yr take on the RRM?

Scissorshand wrote:

Wei!!!!!!! GG, u keep all the expense receipt ka??? Its not taxable btw..................

weii Scissors, i remembered what i invested.. im not keeping any single receipt, even im not asking for receipt..

most big amount i invest was in my car leg...

Racing Hard 3 piece Jpn rim, ISC Coilover comfort siries, ISC BBK 6pot 320mmRotor, Toyo C1S 235/40R18 tyre... argghhh..

now u can add lightweight crankpulley, hot inazma X-power , piggyback or reflash. this mod can add around 16 to 20 HP..

gelygeleman wrote:

Scissorshand wrote:

Wei!!!!!!! GG, u keep all the expense receipt ka??? Its not taxable btw..................

weii Scissors, i remembered what i invested.. im not keeping any single receipt, even im not asking for receipt..

most big amount i invest was in my car leg...

Racing Hard 3 piece Jpn rim, ISC Coilover comfort siries, ISC BBK 6pot 320mmRotor, Toyo C1S 235/40R18 tyre... argghhh..

fuyoohhh!!! thats y we call u mod king.

weii bro elan.. now u ady book a title of ModKing 2010 wallau.. big big VTTR

Scissorshand.

To your question on whether I dynoed the car after putting in the RRM valve timing unit, I did not. I can do this quite easily...just a visit to Speedworks and some RM. I had the dyno results before using the timing unit and can make comparisons. But I was happy with butt dyno and therefore, did not dyno the car. The pulling power was obvious at high rpm...from 4000rpm upwards.

Somehow, lighthened crank pulley did not 'agree' with my engine. Belt moving a lot and making swishing sound. So I had it removed.

My plan is to replace the throttle body and possibly the intake manifold and then go for reflash.

GFI bro.. make sure reflash was the last u do after all performance mod in.

bro sk18, as i know for now, there is no aftermarket throttle body n intake manifold. i'm waiting for it too.. pls let us know if there is any.

Elan. Jun Auto of Japan has the throttle body and inlet manifold for Evo X. Not sure whether this will work for our 4B11

Check with Ason/SC999 about high cam...

sk18 wrote:

Elan. Jun Auto of Japan has the throttle body and inlet manifold for Evo X. Not sure whether this will work for our 4B11

evo x intake is different frm our lancer

Sk18 car is slow...I can attest since I have followed his car before (wz the RRM timing module).

sk18, when you said power, what do you really mean? Acceleration? Top speed?

Your setup is about 135whp, I can suggest you to 145whp peak, with rims change and lowering your gear ratio...(at the expense of top speed by 5kmh)....if that is what you are talking about....???

or you want more top speed, then ditch the 421 and go for the 41....

Let us know what you mean...

Weei..change to evo x lor ..full conversion......heeeeee

yes 4-2-1 extractor for better pick up, 4-1 for top speed.


bro donyong, i dont understand bout lowering d gear ratio. can u elaborate it.

thnking of nx mod.. mayb X SST engine from jpn.

Twin intakes (one with electric fans or electric turbine, one N/A)..

or wait for RPW to come up with twin throttle body and use twin intake system..

Hello Donny (and other members). Long time did not hear from you.

Prior to putting in the open pod K&N and the RRM valve timing unit, I had my lancer dynoed after putting in the Hot Bit exhaust system. It was 152hp and 196Nm (against 141hp and 186Nm before). With the K&N and RRM unit, I would say I got a few more horses.

Would definitely want more power/torque throughout the low-to-high range (fussy driver). Since I had driven the 4B12 and also a Ralliart, I am now after more grunt. Since turbo-charging is problematic for the CVT, will now consider reflashing.

bro how much u bought d RRM valve timing unit.

Cannot remember the exact amount...around RM1200. This was because I got my relative to buy it and send it to his home. Then he couriered it to me. As the value was declared in full, I was hit with full import tax....painfully expensive lesson (sorry Donyong). With the exhaust system, open pod, I would say it was the best mod.

lowering gear ratio = using a smaller diameter tyre...

which means a smaller diameter tyre make 1 revolution faster than a bigger diameter tyre...this improves performance or aceleration

using 40 series tyre, raises your revolution by 100 in the final ratio compared to 45 series tyre

for example, 45 series 1st gear, 40 series, 0.95gear...

but this is expense of top speed by a couple kmh.

read this http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0208_gear_ratio_calculating/index.html


++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Use this formulae to calculate rpm. Remember, before changing, measure your rpm readings say at 70mph (110kmh)

rpm = (70mph x Final Drive Ratio x 336) / tyre diameter(inches).

The higher the rpm per given tyre diameter, means faster acceleration. In priciple, lower profile (smaller diameter) means higher rpm. It also means the rpm rise faster = better acceleration. But again at the expense of top speed since you reach red line faster at lower speed.

good explaination. now i got it.. tyre's width also plays role rite? anyway my next rim will be 17 inch. currently on 18..

Real petrol heads always say REAL MEN use 16-inchers while SHOW-OFFS always want bigger tyres Hahaha

totally agree rev..

ah but there is a catch!!! hahah

17" may be lighter, but 215/50/17 is heavier than 215/45 or 225/40.

Usually, 16" is the best, with 195 tyres...

Rev, Elan and Donyong.

I am still using the standard 18" wheels...saving money for turbo-charging.

Also bigger men have bigger equipment for larger holes !

Well... I actually like small holes... muahahaha

our lancer tyre fender arch quite a bit bigger diameter size for front & also rear.
18 inch just look nice with 40siries tyre.
17 inch look empty space between tyre & fender arch, but good for performance with 40 @ 45 siries tyre.
16 inch will b ugly. cat will looking fwd to sleep on it, even using 45siries tyre.
19 inch rim with 35 siries tyre is the best ... for looks & not so bad for performance.

sk18 dont waste money on turbo kit.

true.. one short install X engine bro.

Right on bros ! Waiting waiting waiting for half cut lor. Will settle for Ralliart 4b11-t. I am too old for the Evo X power. Just 240bhp at engine is sufficient for me

how old r u bro? dun say old la bro.. Evo-X power suit for u.

Definitely older than most of the members here. But still prefer larger holes or tyres due to bigger equipment.

currently, we got secret project to install Evo-X engine SST type to one of our members car. the engine already arrived from Jpn & now in Port Klang. waiting custom clearence.
if this pilot project success till JPJ approval, another 2 X engine will come.

wow!! i wana know who is the next 2..

now, the name in red hi profile secret file bro. only for LN.

Will the half-cut include the gearbox ? If it is just the engine 4B11-T, I doubt that our CVT gearbox can handle the power

its 4B11-T complete with Evo-X SST gearbox.

no point if u buy the engine only, conversion must be together with gearbox and AWD. not like previous evo's where rear wheel's drive can be locked.

Elan wrote:

no point if u buy the engine only, conversion must be together with gearbox and AWD. not like previous evo's where rear wheel's drive can be locked.

wow.. transplant with evoX engine, 4b11T, sure need alot $$$ wor..

estimate how much$$??

money no matters here bro...
complete Evo X half cut with X-engine around 60k bro..

Nice to have a wallet with lots of RM